My model 69 is the first S&W I have seen that has a few blued parts on a stainless gun, have they been doing this for a long time? My 610 is all stainless but I am curious why you capitalized 'ALL'. And there is a reason cartridges designed for revolvers have rims, it is more convenient and reliable. The older 610s will certainly work for what you want but you will be paying twice as much as a new 44 or 357 would cost. 44 specials the 69 would work for that too if you are OK with only having 5 rounds available.

And while I have another gun for HD with. The sort of ammo needed for defending yourself against large animals is both more powerful and easier to find in. I want to wait a few months for the new to wear off my. A little loctite would probably fix that but I have never bothered.īut now that I have a SW69 I am probably going to sell the 610. The gun has always shot very well and the only problem I have had is the ejector rod sometimes comes loose. Moon clips may be great for a quick reload but pulling the shells in and out of is an extra step I would rather skip. I have fired it a few times with 40s in moon clips but most of the time at the range I just drop 10mm in the cylinder and let them head space on the rim. I have put a few thousand rounds through the 610 I bought 20+ years ago and have not had a single failure to fire. Are these 10mm/.40 revolvers reliable? I've heard stories of ignition problems due to rim thickness variances.

.40 calibre revolver